The Best Fabrics for Clothing: A Complete Material Guide

Why Fabric Matters More Than Brand

You can pay $200 for a shirt from a luxury brand, but if it's made from cheap polyester, it's still a bad shirt.

Conversely, a $50 shirt made from quality organic cotton will outlast and outperform that $200 synthetic one.

Fabric is everything.

It determines:

• How the garment feels on your body
• How long it lasts
• How it ages (better or worse over time)
• How breathable and comfortable it is
• How it responds to washing and care
• Its environmental impact

This guide breaks down the best and worst fabrics for clothing, so you can make informed buying decisions.

Natural Fibers: The Gold Standard

Cotton

Overview: The most common natural fiber. Versatile, breathable, durable.

Pros:

• Highly breathable (good for hot weather)
• Soft and comfortable
• Durable with proper care
• Absorbs dye well (holds color)
• Easy to wash and maintain
• Affordable for quality versions

Cons:

• Wrinkles easily
• Can shrink if not pre-shrunk
• Takes longer to dry than synthetics
• Conventional cotton uses heavy pesticides (environmental concern)

Quality grades:

• Organic cotton: No pesticides, better for environment and skin
• Pima cotton: Extra-long staple, softer and more durable than regular cotton
• Supima cotton: Premium Pima grown in USA, highest quality
• Egyptian cotton: Long-staple, luxurious feel
• Regular cotton: Standard quality, still good for basics

Best for: T-shirts, hoodies, sweatshirts, casual shirts, jeans, chinos

Price range: $30-100 for quality cotton garments

Merino Wool

Overview: Fine wool from Merino sheep. Softer than regular wool, naturally technical.

Pros:

• Temperature-regulating (warm in winter, cool in summer)
• Naturally anti-odor (can wear multiple times without washing)
• Moisture-wicking
• Soft, non-itchy (unlike regular wool)
• Naturally elastic (returns to shape)
• Biodegradable

Cons:

• More expensive than cotton
• Requires gentle washing
• Can pill with friction
• Not as durable as cotton for heavy-duty use

Best for: Base layers, long sleeves, sweaters, socks, activewear

Price range: $60-200 for quality merino garments

Linen

Overview: Made from flax plant. Lightweight, breathable, classic summer fabric.

Pros:

• Most breathable natural fiber
• Lightweight and airy
• Gets softer with each wash
• Durable (stronger than cotton when wet)
• Naturally antibacterial
• Low environmental impact

Cons:

• Wrinkles very easily (part of the aesthetic)
• Can be stiff when new
• Limited stretch
• More expensive than cotton

Best for: Summer shirts, lightweight pants, shorts

Price range: $50-150 for linen garments

Cashmere

Overview: Ultra-soft wool from Cashmere goats. Luxury fiber.

Pros:

• Extremely soft and luxurious
• Lightweight but warm
• Excellent insulation
• Elegant drape

Cons:

• Very expensive
• Delicate (pills easily, requires careful care)
• Not as durable as other wools
• Prone to moth damage
• Environmental concerns (overgrazing)

Best for: Sweaters, scarves, luxury layering pieces

Price range: $150-500+ for cashmere garments

Silk

Overview: Natural protein fiber from silkworms. Smooth, lustrous, luxury feel.

Pros:

• Smooth, luxurious feel
• Natural sheen
• Lightweight but insulating
• Drapes beautifully
• Hypoallergenic

Cons:

• Expensive
• Delicate (requires dry cleaning or hand washing)
• Stains easily
• Water spots visible
• Wrinkles easily

Best for: Dress shirts, ties, luxury loungewear (less common in casual menswear)

Price range: $100-400 for silk garments

Hemp

Overview: Made from hemp plant. Durable, sustainable, improves with age.

Pros:

• Extremely durable (3x stronger than cotton)
• Gets softer with each wash
• Naturally antimicrobial
• UV-resistant
• Highly sustainable (fast-growing, low water use)
• Biodegradable

Cons:

• Can be stiff when new
• Limited availability
• Wrinkles easily
• Often blended with other fibers

Best for: T-shirts, casual shirts, pants, jackets

Price range: $40-120 for hemp garments

Synthetic Fibers: When They Work (and When They Don't)

Polyester

Overview: Petroleum-based synthetic. Most common synthetic fiber.

Pros:

• Durable and abrasion-resistant
• Wrinkle-resistant
• Quick-drying
• Holds shape well
• Inexpensive
• Can be recycled (rPET)

Cons:

• Doesn't breathe (traps heat and moisture)
• Retains odors easily
• Can feel plasticky or cheap
• Pills easily in low-quality versions
• Not biodegradable
• Releases microplastics when washed

When it's acceptable: Technical outerwear, activewear, or blended with natural fibers (5-10% for stretch).

When to avoid:

• Casual clothing (t-shirts, hoodies, pants)
• Anything worn directly on skin for long periods
• High-heat environments (doesn't breathe)

Price range: $10-80 (but price doesn't indicate quality—expensive polyester is still polyester)

Nylon

Overview: Synthetic polymer. Durable, elastic, water-resistant.

Pros:

• Very durable and abrasion-resistant
• Lightweight
• Quick-drying
• Water-resistant
• Elastic (stretches and recovers)

Cons:

• Doesn't breathe well
• Retains odors
• Not biodegradable
• Can feel synthetic

When it's acceptable:

• Rain jackets and shells
• Technical outerwear
• Swim trunks
• Performance activewear

When to avoid:

• Everyday casual wear
• Base layers

Elastane/Spandex/Lycra

Overview: Stretchy synthetic. Almost always blended with other fibers.

Pros:

• Adds stretch and comfort
• Helps garments retain shape
• Improves mobility

Cons:

• Degrades over time (loses elasticity)
• Heat-sensitive (damaged by dryers)
• Not biodegradable

When it's acceptable:

• Small amounts (2-5%) in jeans, chinos for comfort
• Activewear (10-20%)
• Underwear and socks

When to avoid:

• High percentages (15%+) in casual clothing
• If you want garments to age well long-term

Acrylic

Overview: Synthetic fiber designed to mimic wool.

Pros:

• Inexpensive
• Lightweight
• Warm
• Holds dye well

Cons:

• Pills heavily
• Doesn't breathe
• Can feel cheap
• Not durable
• Not biodegradable

Verdict: Avoid. If you want wool properties, buy actual wool. Acrylic is a poor substitute.

Rayon/Viscose

Overview: Semi-synthetic made from wood pulp. Feels like natural fiber but isn't.

Pros:

• Soft and smooth
• Drapes well
• Breathable
• Absorbs dye well

Cons:

• Weak when wet (tears easily)
• Shrinks and wrinkles
• Not durable
• Environmentally questionable (chemical processing)

Verdict: Better than polyester, worse than cotton. Acceptable in blends, but pure rayon isn't ideal for long-lasting clothing.

Blends: When Mixing Makes Sense

Cotton-Polyester Blends

Common ratios: 80/20, 70/30, 60/40, 50/50

Why brands do it: Cheaper, wrinkle-resistant, easier care

The reality: Not all blends are created equal.

• 80/20 cotton/poly: Acceptable. Mostly cotton benefits with slight durability boost.
• 60/40 or 50/50: Avoid. Too much polyester—loses breathability and comfort.

Verdict: Small amounts (10-20% poly) are tolerable. Anything more sacrifices too much comfort.

Cotton-Elastane Blends

Common ratios: 98/2, 95/5

Why brands do it: Adds stretch and comfort

The reality: 2-5% elastane makes jeans and chinos more comfortable without sacrificing breathability. This is a good blend.

Verdict: Acceptable and often beneficial for pants.

Merino-Synthetic Blends

Common ratios: 70/30, 60/40 merino/poly or nylon

Why brands do it: Increases durability, reduces price, faster drying

The reality: For activewear and base layers, this blend can work well. You get merino's natural benefits with added durability.

Verdict: Acceptable for performance/technical clothing. Pure merino is better for casual wear.

How to Identify Quality Fabrics

Read the Tag

Always check the fabric composition tag. By law, it must list materials in order of percentage.

Good signs:

• 100% cotton, wool, linen, or other natural fibers
• 95%+ natural fiber with small synthetic blend
• Specific cotton types listed (Pima, Supima, organic)

Red flags:

• 50%+ polyester in casual clothing
• Rayon/viscose as primary fiber
• Acrylic in any amount
• Vague terms like "fashion fabric" or "other materials"

The Hand Test

Feel the fabric. Quality natural fibers have weight, texture, and substance.

What to feel for:

• Weight: Quality fabrics feel substantial, not thin or flimsy
• Texture: Natural fibers have character; synthetics feel flat
• Smoothness vs. slickness: Cotton is smooth; cheap poly is slick/plasticky

The Light Test

Hold the garment up to light. Can you see through it easily?

• Opaque/semi-opaque: Good quality, dense fabric
• See-through: Thin, low-quality fabric

The Price Test (Imperfect but Useful)

While price doesn't guarantee quality, extremely cheap clothing is almost always low-quality fabric.

General fabric cost guidelines:

• $10-20 t-shirt: Likely thin cotton or cotton-poly blend
• $30-60 t-shirt: Can be quality if heavyweight cotton
• $80+ t-shirt: Should be premium (Supima, organic, merino, etc.)

Fabric Recommendations by Garment Type

T-Shirts

Best: 100% heavyweight cotton (180-220 GSM), Supima, Pima, organic

Acceptable: Cotton-blends with ≤10% poly or elastane

Avoid: 50/50 cotton-poly blends, 100% polyester

Hoodies & Sweatshirts

Best: 100% cotton fleece (300+ GSM)

Acceptable: 80/20 cotton-poly fleece

Avoid: High synthetic content, thin fleece

Jeans & Pants

Best: 100% cotton denim (12-14+ oz), or 98/2 cotton-elastane

Acceptable: 95/5 cotton-elastane for stretch comfort

Avoid: High-stretch (10%+ elastane), polyester blends

Outerwear (Casual)

Best: Cotton, wool, canvas

Acceptable: Cotton-poly blends for durability

Avoid: 100% synthetic unless technical/performance piece

Outerwear (Technical)

Best: Nylon, polyester, Gore-Tex (purpose-built for weather resistance)

Acceptable: Any waterproof/breathable synthetic

Note: This is where synthetics excel and are appropriate

Base Layers

Best: Merino wool (temperature regulation, anti-odor)

Acceptable: Merino-synthetic blends, quality cotton

Avoid: Pure synthetic for casual wear

Underwear & Socks

Best: Merino wool, modal, quality cotton

Acceptable: Blends with elastane for fit

Avoid: Pure polyester

Environmental Impact of Fabrics

Most Sustainable

1. Organic cotton: No pesticides, low water use with proper farming
2. Hemp: Fast-growing, requires minimal water, no pesticides
3. Linen: Made from flax, low environmental impact
4. Organic wool/merino: Renewable, biodegradable (if ethically sourced)
5. Recycled polyester (rPET): Better than virgin polyester, but still releases microplastics

Least Sustainable

1. Conventional cotton: Heavy pesticide use, water-intensive
2. Virgin polyester: Petroleum-based, releases microplastics, non-biodegradable
3. Rayon/viscose: Toxic chemical processing
4. Cashmere: Overgrazing concerns

The Bottom Line

For most clothing, prioritize natural fibers:

• 100% cotton (especially Pima, Supima, or organic)
• Merino wool for base layers and sweaters
• Linen for summer clothing
• Hemp for durable basics

Synthetics are acceptable when:

• Technical outerwear (waterproof, insulated)
• Performance activewear
• Small percentages for stretch (2-10%)

Always avoid:

• 50%+ polyester in casual clothing
• Acrylic
• High rayon/viscose content

Fabric determines quality more than brand name. A $60 100% organic cotton tee will outlast a $150 synthetic designer tee.

Check the tag. Feel the fabric. Buy natural fibers. Your wardrobe will thank you.